Hopp til innholdet
Don Guerra, en leder av den lokale kornbevegelsen i Tucson, utfordrer andre til å reimagine håndverksbaking med et øye mot latino- og urfolksrøtter.
På Barrio Bread i Tucson baker Don Guerra utelukkende med korn dyrket i det sørlige Arizona. I oktober viste han frem et brød han kaller Locavore.Kreditt...Rebecca Noble for The New York Times
Støttet av
Fortsett å lese hovedhistorien
Send en historie til enhver venn
Som abonnent har du10 gaveartiklerå gi hver måned. Alle kan lese det du deler.
60
AvJohn Birdsall
Les på spansk
TUCSON, Arizona – Julisola var så vidt oppe, men varmen var allerede langt over behagelig. Don Guerra virket imidlertid uberørt, som om ørkenen for lenge siden hadde satt seg i beinene hans. Han hadde beveget seg raskt siden klokken 04.00 til det klingende lydsporet til en integrert laster, det stive lerretstransportbåndet som sender rå torpedoer av smerte au levain inn på dekkene til ovnen hans med fire nivåer kl.Barrio Brød.
Mr. Guerra, 51, ristet mel tykt over overflaten av lilla-grå deig før han tok en plastsjablong: et bilde avhvetespyd som dupper foran en saguaro-kaktus. "En av mine absolutte favoritter," sa han om brødet, som han kaller Locavore. Når den er ferdig, har den en frodig lukt av malt og en skarp duft av surt. Den inneholder tre typer hvete (alle dyrket i det sørlige Arizona), inkludert White Sonora, som Mr. Guerra har hjulpet med å gjenopplive.
Å ta denne arvestykket i bruk igjen var målrettet. For selv om Mr. Guerra fortsatt bruker vokabularet og tradisjonene til fransk og italiensk brødbaking, har han klart noe radikalt. Herr Guerra baker utelukkende med korn dyrket i det sørlige Arizona, og har sporet hvete til sine dypeste røtter i Nord-Amerika: strekningen av Sonoran-ørkenen som inkluderer Tucson og som dykker under grensen mellom USA og Mexico til åkrene der spanske misjonærer antas å har introdusert kornet på midten av 1600-tallet.
Dessuten, i en håndverksbakeindustri som skjever overveldende hvit, og i en nasjon der hvetens ikonografi ser ut til å være etset inn i ravbølgene på Great Plains, utfordrer Mr. Guerra - forsiktig og med et smil - kulturen.
Svarte, urfolk og andre fargede er ofte marginalisert i bakermiljøet, sa Mr. Guerra, men for ham er baking en integrert del av identiteten hans.
"Brødet er til syvende og sist den jeg er," sa han.
Bilde
Hans innsats har blitt en inspirasjonskilde for andre bakere. PåJeg liker brødi Long Beach, California, favoriserer Arturo Enciso spanske termer for baking. Han kaller surdeigstarteren masa madre, eller moderdeig, og baguettene hans for huesos, eller bein. Mr. Enciso, hvis foreldre er fra Mexico, begynte i det han kaller en klassisk modus, med å bake smerten au levain han hentet fra fransk tradisjon. Nå omstøper han håndverksbakst på en måte som sentrerer en latino-identitet. Mr. EncisoCalifornia brød, laget med statlig dyrket korn, ble direkte inspirert av Barrios Heritage-brød.
"Å bringe mer mening til produktet, og bringe frem en bakefilosofi - Don var en av de første gutta jeg så gjøre det," sa Mr. Enciso.
Bryan Ford er forfatteren av «New World Sourdough», en kokebok utgitt i fjor som ser på håndverksbaking gjennom linsen til Latin-Amerika. Mr. Ford, hvis arv er afro-honduransk, sa at han fornemmet i disse endringene begynnelsen på en bevegelse.
"Enten det er noen som Don," sa han, "som driver med kornene og tar seg inn i kornkulturen for å utforske denne ideen, er det hyggelig å se flere bakere med disse røttene, enten det er meksikansk eller sentralamerikansk eller søramerikansk." Det er viktig at disse håndverkerne går tilbake til å "bruke korn på måter som fremhever vår kultur," la han til.
Bilde
Bilde
I Tucson, en by som er bedre kjent for meltortillas enn levain, er Mr. Guerra en stjerne i den lokale kornbevegelsen. Mange håndverksbakere snakker om voksende lokale kornøkonomier, ved å bruke korn som er høstet og malt relativt kort avstand fra ovnene deres - locavore-etosen som brukes for baking. Mr. Guerra har gjort det i årevis, og jobbet med korndyrkere i sørlige Arizona, urbefolkningenSan Xavier andelsgårdog andre grupper.
En av hans første tvangstanker var White Sonora-hvete. I følge den ideelle organisasjonenSlow Food USA, antas kornet å ha blitt plantet først av Opata-folket i et område mindre enn 50 miles fra Magdalena de Kino, byen i Sonora, Mexico, hvor Mr. Guerra sporer familiens latino- og Yaqui-stammerøtter. ("Dette går tilbake," sa han. "Dette er ekte.") Mens White Sonora var den dominerende varianten i det vestlige USA i store deler av 1800-tallet, var den kommersielt død på 1980-tallet.
I 2014 ble Mr. Guerra med i en kampanje for å gjenopplive kornet ledet avInnfødte frø/søk, en frøbank i Tucson hvis tilbud er samlet inn fra Southwest-regionen. Mr. Guerra bidro til å overtale Arizona dyrkere somBKW Farmså gi den en sjanse ved å love å kjøpe deler av avlingen til Barrio Brød.
«Det var folk som dro til Sonoran-regionen,» sa han, «og snakket med disse småskala bøndene i disse dalene som lagde tortillas med det, og sa «Hei, kan jeg få et par Mason-krukker fulle av frø?»
Bilde
Mr. Guerra ble født i 1970 i Tempe, like øst for Phoenix. Faren hans, Bennie, var frisør; moren hans, Denise, som har irske røtter, jobbet i hjemmet. "Det var ikke mye penger," sa Mr. Guerra. "Men det var mel." Moren hans bakte brød, kaker, paier. Hans bestemor på farens side hadde et spesielt preg for å lage meltortillas.
Mr. Guerras foreldre oppmuntret til assimilering. Faren hans husket et offentlig svømmebasseng for hvite i Tempe på 1960-tallet, med skilt som sperret meksikanske amerikanere. «For meg da jeg vokste opp, var det sånn «Ikke snakk spansk i samfunnet fordi folk vil vite at du er meksikansk», sa Guerra. Han kaller hans omfavnelse av arven sin spesielt befriende på grunn av den historien med forsiktighet.
Som 8-åring startet Mr. Guerra en skopussvirksomhet i Bennies frisørsalong; innen 16, sier han, administrerte han en middag. Noen år senere – han husker ikke hvor mange – oppdaget Mr. Guerra brød. "Jeg hadde så mye mas bak meg," husket han, "jeg trengte bare det produktet jeg var helt lidenskapelig opptatt av. Plutselig var det som brød og bakeri - dette er syltetøyet mitt nå.»
Han plukket opp grunnleggende teknikker påArizona Bread Companyi North Scottsdale, og lærte å skrive en forretningsplan gjennom et community college-program.
I 1996 åpnet Mr. Guerra sitt første bakeri, Village Baker, i Flagstaff. Han åpnet en annen filial i Ashland, Oregon, noen år senere. Brød- og wienerbrødsmenyene var enorme - Mr. Guerra følte seg evig utslitt. Han solgte virksomheten og flyttet til Tucson i 2000 sammen med sin kone, Jen. Han trodde han ville forfølge en mer stabil karriere, og meldte seg inn ved University of Arizona, hvor han tok en lærergrad.
Etter syv år å undervise i matematikk og trene idrett på en offentlig barneskole, gikk Mr. Guerra tilbake til brød. I 2009 gjorde han om garasjen med to biler til et produksjonskjøkken. Hans tidligere kolleger var blant de første kundene hans: Han solgte brød til lærere, hauket brød på Shopify og genererte linjer på bondemarkeder. Han kalte virksomheten sin en C.S.B. (samfunnsstøttet bakeri), og adopterte navnet fra Barrio Del Este, Tucson-området hvor garasjen hans snart begynte å gløde og nynne lenge før solen kom opp.
Bilde
«Noen ganger tenker jeg «Wow, jeg fødte denne tingen ut av garasjen min»» sa Mr. Guerra og lo. "Se hvor mange kule ting som kom ut av garasjer:Steve Jobs, Ramones. Andre steder - for eksempel Mexico - mann, du er en legende hvis du kan sette sammen huset ditt og du har en liten butikk på siden. Den personen er virkelig respektert.»
I 2016, etter åtte år i garasjen, åpnet Mr. Guerra sin nåværende beliggenhet i et lite kjøpesenter fra 1960-tallet. Prep-området er nesten nøyaktig samme størrelse som hans gamle garasje; dimensjonene gjør at han føler seg mest som seg selv, sa han.
Mr. Guerra og hans kone skilte seg for tre år siden, delvis på grunn av uenighet om hans tidlige timer og en straffende arbeidsmengde. (Hun er fortsatt medeier av Barrio Bread og administrerer menneskelige ressurser og økonomi.) I år overvåket Mr. Guerra åpningen avCharro-området, et sted på dagtid i Tucson som serverer smørbrød og bakevarer, et samarbeid medJa Charro!restaurantgruppe. Og han startet Barrio Grains, en pakket linje med hele korn og melblandinger som går inn i Barrios brød, produsert avHayden flour Millsfra Queen Creek, Ariz.
Mr. Guerra har også en ny besettelse. Han er i ferd med å finne ut hvordan han kan få tak i en 50-kilos sekk med organisk kulturhvete nord over grensen ved Nogales, i Arizona. Han har nådd ut til småbønder i Sonora, inkludert Jose Luis Lámbarri, en bonde nær Ciudad Obregón, 650 mil sør for Tucson. Mr. Lámbarri dyrker Yaqui-50, en myk hvete som er kjent for å smake søtt og nøtteaktig.
Til tross for at han møtte utallige byråkratiske hindringer, virket Mr. Guerra energisk, summet av håp om utsiktene til å få tak i den, male den i bordkvernen, blande den inn i deigen.
"Å krysse grenser, gi dette kornet til mitt folk i form av brød," sa han. "For meg er det makt."
FølgNYT Food er på TwitterogNÅ er Cooking på Instagram,Facebook,YouTubeogPinterest.Få jevnlige oppdateringer fra NYT Cooking, med oppskriftsforslag, matlagingstips og handleråd.
En versjon av denne artikkelen vises på trykk på, Seksjon
D
, Side
1
av New York-utgaven
med overskriften:
Bake opp brød som visker ut grenser.Bestill opptrykk|Dagens papir|Abonnere
60
60
Annonse
Fortsett å lese hovedhistorien
FAQs
What was the significance of the bread baker in Goa? ›
Breads and cakes were an integral part of everyday life in Goa and were also consumed on special occasions. Thus, the baker was a man whose arrival was always eagerly anticipated by the adults and children. Bakers were very informal with the children. They were considered as friends and companions.
Who is the owner of Barrio Bread? ›Don Guerra: In 2009 I decided to make that jump to go full-time with the bread, and leave my teaching job, founding Barrio Bread and that was out of my garage. I had been a bakery owner before, prior to teaching, but the whole time I was thinking I gotta get back to the bakery, it's what I love.
Is Don Guerra Married? ›The bread and pastry menus were huge — Mr. Guerra felt perennially exhausted. He sold the business and moved to Tucson in 2000 with his wife, Jen.
What is the best flour for artisan bread? ›Flour: For absolute best flavor and chewy texture, I strongly recommend using bread flour. You can use a 1:1 substitution of all-purpose flour in a pinch with no other changes to the recipe. I recommend avoiding whole wheat flour in this dough. If necessary, use half bread flour and half whole wheat flour.
What is the lesson a baker from Goa about? ›A baker from Goa is a story that relates to the time when there was Portuguese rule in Goa. The story is of a baker living in a Goan village. During those times people ate loaves of bread. These were made in big furnaces.
Is bread an important part of Goa life how do you know this? ›Yes, bread is an important part of Goan life. We know this because the important festivals of Goanese can't be celebrated without bol and sweet bread. Bolinhas need to be prepared during Christmas and other festivals.
Who owns bakery Square Pittsburgh? ›Walnut Capital purchased the site and spearheaded redevelopment to transform the bakery and surrounding land into a mixed-use complex consisting of 223,000 square feet of office space, 165,000 square feet of retail space and a 120-room hotel.
Who is the man who sell bread? ›A baker is a person whose job is to bake and sell bread, pastries, and cakes. A baker or a baker's is a shop where bread and cakes are sold.
Who owns baked NYC? ›With four cookbooks, a cookware line, and Baked NYC locations in Brooklyn and Manhattan, Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito have built a baking empire serving fresh, classically American cakes and desserts.
What happened to Juan Guerra? ›According to news sources, despite allegedly founding one of the largest drug cartels in Mexico, Juan Nepomuceno Guerra never spent more than "a few hours in jail" for his crimes. He died of respiratory disease.
Who is Alberto Guerra married to? ›
Don grew up in the Phoenix area and enjoyed baking with his mother and eating his nana's tortillas. He attended the University of Arizona to study anthropology and then headed to Flagstaff, Arizona.
Which flour makes bread rise the most? ›So, if you're wondering how to make sourdough bread, you'll probably find most recipes recommend a strong white bread flour over an all-purpose flour. This is because the higher protein content of bread flour will help you create the high rise and rustic crust of an artisan style loaf.
What is the secret to making good bread? ›- Use the right yeast. ...
- Store your yeast properly. ...
- Treat salt with care. ...
- Take your time. ...
- Try different flours. ...
- Consider vitamin C. ...
- Practice makes perfect. ...
- Don't prove for too long.
- Coconut flour. Coconut flour — made by milling dried coconut meat into a powder — is a grain- and gluten-free option. ...
- Oat flour. Oat flour — made from ground-up rolled oats — is a whole-grain flour that is gluten-free. ...
- Quinoa flour. ...
- Buckwheat flour.
The baker is called a pader.
Suggest Corrections.
The baker is called a 'pader' in Goa.
Is bread making still popular in Goa? ›Answer: Yes, bread making is still popular in Goa. This is very clear from the narrator's statement that the eaters have gone away leaving the makers behind. There are mixers, moulders and the ones who bake the loaves. The time-tested furnaces still exist there.
Is bread an important part of our life? ›Breads are rich in complex carbohydrates. Carbohydrates are an important part of our diet as they provide us with energy. Our bread contains various B vitamins, including Thiamin (Vitamin B1) and Niacin (Vitamin B3) which are essential for releasing energy from food.
What is the origin of bread in Goa? ›Goan bread was introduced by Portuguese Jesuits in the 16th century. Today, this humble food item – handmade, wood-fired and available in various shapes and sizes – is intertwined with the culture and identity of Goans.
Who brought the tradition of bread in Goa? ›
The fine art of baking bread may have been brought to Goa by the Portuguese missionaries, but like many other Goan delicacies, our nifty Goan bakers adapted the recipe, adding local ingredients, such as using toddy for leavening instead of yeast, to give the bread its distinct Goan flavour.
Who owns Bakers Square? ›Today, Bakers Square is owned and managed by BBQ Holdings, Inc.
Why is it called Bakery Square Pittsburgh? ›Bakery Square was once home to the Nabisco Baking Factory that filled the air with delightful scents of their cookies throughout the neighborhood.
Who owns Buckeye bakery? ›What we are about! My name is Chelsi Buck I run the bakery with my twin brothers Rody Phelps and Cody Phelps. And the best crew any business owner could ask for.
What is a bread chef called? ›boulanger (baker): responsible for breads, cakes, and breakfast pastries.
What is a bread man called? ›A baker is a tradesperson who bakes and sometimes sells breads and other products made of flour by using an oven or other concentrated heat source. The place where a baker works is called a bakery. Baker.
Who buys the most bread? ›Revenue-wise, China and India dominate the lion's share of the global bread market, which is valued at $66.8bn and $47.28bn, respectively in 2022.
Who owns Baked Hong Kong? ›The day he found his dream, he never stopped pursuing it. — Zahir Mohamed, who is a baker originally from Cape Town, South Africa, got into baking since childhood.
Who is Baked by Melissa's husband? ›Personal life. Melissa Ben-Ishay is married to Adi Ben-Ishay, who also works for Baked by Melissa.
Who owns Baked in Brooklyn bakery? ›Joseph Ayoub - Owner - Baked in brooklyn | LinkedIn.
Who owns the Gulf Cartel? ›
Osiel Cárdenas' brother, Antonio Cárdenas Guillén, along with Jorge Eduardo Costilla Sánchez (El Coss), a former policeman, filled in the vacuum left by Osiel and became the leaders of the Gulf Cartel.
Does Juan Luis Guerra have a wife? › What race is Juan Luis Guerra? ›Juan Luis Guerra Seijas (born 7 June 1957) is a Dominican musician, singer, composer, and record producer. He has sold 30 million records worldwide, making him one of the best-selling Latin music artists.
Who is Alberto dating? ›Alberto Rosende fiancée
Alberto Rosende is engaged to actress Tessa Mossey. Mossey and Rosende first met on the set of Freeform's hit supernatural drama Shadowhunters which they both starred in. The two are said to have begun officially dating in 2018 before announcing their engagement on Dec. 25, 2021.
Darío seems to have moved on from his obsession of Alma, now happily dating a woman named Julieta Lazcano, engaged to her and intending to marry her. However, his life is turned around when Alma, who is also struggling to get over her obssession, suddenly returns to the young man's life.
How old is Alberto Guerra? › Is Juan Luis Guerra Mexican? ›Juan Luis Guerra (born June 7, 1957 in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic) is the most internationally recognized Dominican singer/songwriter. His pop style of Merengue and Bolero and Afro-pop/Latin fusion have garnered him considerable success outside the Dominican Republic.
Who is the current Don of Mexico? ›It is currently headed by Ismael Zambada García and is based in the city of Culiacán, Sinaloa, with operations in many world regions but primarily in the Mexican states of Sinaloa, Baja California, Durango, Sonora, and Chihuahua. and presence in a number of other regions in Latin America as well as in cities across the ...
Where was Juan Luis Guerra raised? ›Guerra was born in 1957 to a middle class family in Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic. His father had been a professional basketball player and his mother, Olga, was an attorney.
Which flour rises the most? ›Bread Flour (12.5% – 15% Protein)
The higher protein in bread flour allows more for increased gluten development when combined with water. Gluten allows doughs to expand, hold large amounts of air (think: lovely artisanal bread with delicious air pockets) and produce high rise.
Which flower is the best for bread? ›
Durum wheat flour has the highest protein of all flour. However, the gluten that forms when water is added is not elastic, so durum wheat needs to be used in combination with other flours. Bread can be made with up to 26% durum wheat flour.
Which flour makes bread chewy? ›All purpose flour contains less gluten than bread flour. The higher content of gluten in bread flour makes it ideal for airy, chewy bread, rather than dense bread.
How do bakeries get their bread so soft? ›There's something magical about the bread you get at your local bakeries - they're always sooo soft and fluffy. Many of these breads, especially packaged ones, are made with a ton of chemical additives such as calcium propionate, amylase, and chlorine dioxide which help keep them soft, light, and fluffy for days.
What makes bread lighter and fluffier? ›Carbon dioxide is responsible for all the bubbles that make holes in bread, making it lighter and fluffier. Because gas is created as a result of yeast growth, the more the yeast grows, the more gas in the dough and the more light and airy your bread loaf will be.
What gives bread the best flavor? ›If you're looking to ramp up the taste of your favorite bread recipe, we recommend adding a bit of fat. A fat like butter, olive oil or coconut oil in small quantities will help your bread achieve a higher rise and it will also boost its flavor by tenfold.
What flour do professional bakers use? ›Pastry flour is the middle ground between cake flour and all-purpose flour. Professional bakers love that it's finely milled with a protein content that hovers around eight to nine percent, striking the perfect balance between flakiness and tenderness while maintaining structure.
What is the best flour for high cholesterol? ›Use Whole-Wheat Flour
Most recipes call for all-purpose flour, which is more refined. Whole-wheat flour is a little coarser but contains more fiber — an ingredient that is known to lower your LDL cholesterol levels.
All purpose flour is your most standard flour. It's used in everything from chocolate chip cookies, brownies, some cakes, breads, cinnamon rolls and more! It is most common in cakes where there is a fruit or vegetable that makes the cake very moist, such as carrot cake.
Is bread making still popular in Goa How do you know what is the baker called when would the baker come everyday Why did the children run to meet him? ›Answer: Yes, bread-making is still popular in Goa. It is evident from the fact when the narrator states that the eaters have gone away, but the makers still exist. The presence of the mixers, moulders and the ones who bake the loaves and the time tested furnaces are a proof of their existence.
Was the baker a respected person in Goa? ›The baker was a very respected person in the Goan society because he would guide the children about good behaviour (when he mildly rebuked them for peeping into his basket and giving respect to the elders).
Why was baker's furnace essential in a traditional Goan village? ›
A furnace is used for representing a large heating material. In Goa, these furnaces are playing a major role in preparing the loaves of bread and other bakery related items like delicacies.
What did the baker used during our childhood in Goa? ›During our childhood in Goa, the baker used to be our friend, companion and guide. He used to come at least twice a day. Once when he set out in the morning on his round and then again, when he returned after emptying his huge basket.
How can one conclude that baking was a profitable profession in Goa? ›Baking was really a profitable profession as the bread was an important part of the food of the Goan people. The presence of the baker's furnace in the village is absolutely essential. In this profession, the people never starved. The bakers earned well and kept servants.
How can you say that the makers of the famous Goan loaves are still there? ›How can you say that the makers of the famous Goan loaves are still there? Ans. Many of those eaters of loaves might have died but their makers still exist. The mixers, moulders and those who bake the loaves are still there in Goa.
What are the things still exist in Goa related to bread making? ›The author says that the mixers, moulders, and those who bake the loaves are still present in Goa.
What are the bakers known as in Goa even today? ›The baker is called a 'pader' in Goa.
What did the Portuguese love from a baker from Goa? ›Apart from eating bread daily, bread held an important place at the time of Christmas, marriages and other functions. Although, with the passage of time, people do not eat so much bread today, yet the village bakers are still there. The Portuguese were famous for earns the loaves of bread. They left Goa long ago.
How do the people of Goa remember the traditional bakers? ›The 'thud' and 'jingle' of the traditional bamboo baker, marking his arrival in the morning, could still be heard in some places. It is a family profession that is carried out generations after generations. In Goa, the bakers are known as the pader.
Why did baker and his family never starve? ›Answer. Answer: The baker and his family never starved because baking was a profitable profession.
What does the author tell about the baker when he was a child in Goa? ›The author told that during his childhood the baker used to be friendly. The baker visited the house twice a day. The jingling sound of his bamboo woke him from sleep and he ran to greet him.
What does the author fondly remember about the bakers of Goa? ›
Ans. The author remembers fondly his childhood days in Goa. He recalls how the baker used to be the friend, companion and guide of the children. The thud and jingle of the traditional baker's bamboo woke them from their sleep.
What did the baker in Goa come everyday? ›Answer: The baker would come twice a day—once early in the morning and the second time when he returned after selling his stuff. The children would run to meet him as they wanted to have bread-bangles.